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binissalem

The Complete Binissalem Travel Guide

Imbibe in Binissalem. It is a culture unto itself. Drink it in. It’s the Matryoshka doll of history and culture. It is Spanish; it is Mallorcan; it is Binissalem. It is Talaiotic, Roman, and Moorish. It was once the very heart of European wine production. It is now at the heart of Mallorca’s wine production as the emblematic town of DO Binissalem

You may have come to Mallorca to vacation on its beaches, but take a train to Binissalem and travel. Its cultural significance is seen in its architecture, tasted in its food, and celebrated in its wine. To experience Mallorca beyond the lens of your snorkel goggles is to learn about its people, land, and agriculture. In this, Binissalem is the capital of Mallorca.

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Binissalem sits in the flatlands of the Raiguer. The Raiguer is a geographical location in Mallorca that sits south of and parallels the Tramuntana Mountain Range. The change from the steep, clifflike Tramuntana Mountains to the flatness of the Raiguer land is dramatic. Looking north to south and from afar, Binissalem looks like a midwestern town in America, cropped up in the middle of nowhere, like an old cowboy town. Looking south to north, however, the dominance of the Tramuntanas is in clear view, a picturesque backdrop to this historical town. 

This location, in the flats below the Tramuntanas, protects Binissalem from harsh northern winds while benefiting from the mountain’s watery runoffs. Thus, Binissalem has thrived as the agricultural heartland of Mallorca for millennia.

How to Get to Binissalem

Binissalem’s location not only makes it prime for agriculture but also easily accessible from just about anywhere on the island. 

Driving

Out of Palma, the drive is less than 30 minutes down the Ma-13. As you pass Santa Maria and Consell on the highway, you will notice rows and rows of grape vines sunning below the Tramuntanas. Take exit 17 off Ma-13 and loop around to the north, where you will hit a roundabout. Take a right at the roundabout onto Ma-13a (which runs parallel to highway Ma-13), and this will take you straight to town. 

Train

The TIB train travels to Binissalem, making a day trip to the wine capital of Mallorca a breeze. All three train lines (T1, T2, and T3) leaving Palma’s Estació Intermodal pass through the town. The trip is around 35 minutes long, and trains depart from Palma every 20 minutes.

Bike

Mallorca is a biker’s paradise. If you happen to be staying in Palma, you can easily rent a bike in the city and make your way out to Binissalem on two wheels. The most direct route is along the pleasant two-lane Ma-13a. Once you get through Marratxí and cross over the larger Ma-13 highway, you will pass through the beautiful towns of Santa Maria de Camí and Consell before arriving in Binissalem. The route is just over 14 miles long, or around 23 kilometers.

Where to Stay in Binissalem

Binissalem is not awash with hotels. Most of the hospitality tends to be in the periphery of town. This provides a couple of benefits. One is that it keeps Binissalem authentically local, without kitschy storefronts alluring tourists. Second, it allows for unique accommodations, such as agrotourism and old country mansions turned into luxurious stays.

Best Hotel Overall: Es Quatre Cantons

Get the most out of the Raiguer countryside at Es Quarte Cantons while still being close to the bodegas and town squares of Binissalem. The stonewalled rooms are in keeping with the Raiguer scene. The on-site bar and restaurant serve Mallorcan wines and fresh, local produce.

I especially like that this hotel makes a point to get guests into the great outdoors by providing information and access to the endless nature escapes awaiting them. Centrally located on the island, Es Quatre Cantons is an excellent spot from which to explore authentic Mallorca.

Best Luxury Hotel: Sa Cabana Hotel & Spa

Rural luxury at a reasonable price, this adult-only hotel is equipped for countryside comfort. Outwardly, Sa Cabana is a 16th-Century country house. Inwardly, it has been refashioned with a pool, spa, and modern rooms. The swanky bar and á la carte restaurant serve local flavors with produce from their private garden.

Best Experience: Finca Santa Lucia

Finca Santa Lucia is an exquisite home located less than two miles from the town of Binissalem. The property is available to rent for a minimum of six nights with a maximum of ten people. The home has five bedrooms, multiple lounges, and indoor and outdoor dining areas. The landscaping is superb, as are the views of the Tramuntanas. It is also available for weddings or private events.

Where to Eat in Binissalem

Most Authentically Mallorcan: Celler Sa Vinya

If you are wondering what it’s like to live in Mallorca as a Mallorcan, all inquiries will be answered at Celler Sa Vinya. I ventured here one afternoon during a self-guided wine tour. Upon entering, I was hit by a wave of noise, people, food, and wine, all combining like a torrent. You would have thought it was a grand holiday amongst this merrymaking. But, no, it was just another lunchtime at Celler Sa Vinya.

Once your initial wide-eyed excitement of the place tapers, try ordering their typical menu del día or another Mallorcan staple like the arròs brut.

Most Fun: CoHeo

As an American living in Spain, while I genuinely love Spanish food, I even more genuinely miss Mexican food. CoHeo satisfies both my infatuations with a unique fusion of Spanish and Mexican favorites. Nachos with sobrasada, spicey gambas, or lamb tacos are all choice and served in a comfy Mallorcan atmosphere.

Best Atmosphere: Ca s’Hereu

This is the first restaurant I was shown in Mallorca. Friends guided me here as an introduction to the typical Spanish comida – a midday meal of multiple courses enjoyed between 2 and 4 p.m. 

It’s a bustling, old restaurant with a tavern-like back patio. The prices are unbeatable. Choose three courses from an extensive list of starters, mains, and desserts, all for less than 13€. Oh, and that includes a jug of wine, olives, and bread on the side.

Things to Do in Binissalem

As Binissalem sits in the flatlands below the mountains and at a distance from the sea, it is more of a cultural and culinary destination and less of a beach vacation. With that in mind, you will find plenty to fill your time in Binissalem.

Wine Tasting and Tours

There are at least 11 wineries in the greater area of Binissalem. On several occasions, I have taken the train from Palma to Binissalem for a self-guided walking tour of these wineries. No official tours will take you from bodega to bodega, but walking from one to the next is easy enough and quite enjoyable. It is usually appreciated to call in advance and inform the bodega of your estimated arrival time, especially if you want a full tour of the vineyard.

vins nadal winery
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Do not let this deter you, though. The wineries are very accommodating, and spending a day walking the old streets of Binissalem and sampling wine is truly an authentic experience rarely found elsewhere. 

Keep your eye out for the DO Binissalem label. DO stands for “denomination of origin,” which ensures that the winery follows specific purity regulations, including using a minimum amount of local grape varieties in each bottle. (See our Complete Guide to Mallorcan Wine for more in-depth information.)

  • José L. Ferrer
  • Vins Nadal
  • Bodegues Oliver
  • Can Novell
  • Ca’n Verdura
  • Vins Ripoll
  • Tianna Negre
  • Sa Cabana
  • Jardí Lavica
  • Antonio Nadal
  • Biniagual
jose l ferrer

Starting in 1931, José L. Ferrer is now one of the island’s largest producers, producing close to 1 million bottles annually. They have a large tasting room, outdoor patio, and a room of historical artifacts to peruse. The tasting room is set up similarly to a bar and accepts walk-up wine tastings.

Vins Nadal is one of my favorite wineries to visit. The grapes are fermented in a beautiful, old stone bodega in the middle of town. They have a lovely courtyard on which to taste their delicious wine while snacking on tasty tapas. Another winery that accepts walk-ups and has a tasting menu, though call ahead to ensure there is space.

vins nadal
bodegues oliver

Bodegues Oliver has been evolving over three generations. In the past, they produced bulk wine for the neighbors. Now, they bottle an extensive wine lineup for shipping around the island. Enjoy a tasting in their 18th-century cellar, conveniently located in town.

For over 100 years, Can Novell has produced wine for Binissalem and beyond. Much of their wine is sold in bulk out of large wooden casks from which you can fill bottles a liter or two at a time. Can Novell is synonymous with good, authentic, affordable wine.

can novell
ca'n verdura

Ca’n Verdura’s cellar is found within the narrow streets of Binissalem, but their wine is easily purchased across the island. The Ca’n Verdura family has been producing wine for six generations with a firm nod toward and humble appreciation of the local Montenegro grape.

Vins Ripoll is in their third generation of winemaking, which began in 1925. They stay true to Mallorca’s agricultural heritage by being a part of the protected geographical indication of Vi de la Terra Mallorca and by focusing much of their production on native grapes.

vins ripoll
tianna negre

Tianna Negre is a 100% organic wine producer with over 55 hectares of sustainable vine growth. Their winery is full of inspiration. They warmly welcome visitors for tastings and tours and put on musical events and even yoga classes.

Bodega Sa Cabana is located on ancient agricultural land just off the Ma-13 between Binissalem and Inca. The bodega invites you to visit their winery and sample one or all the four delectable wines they produce.

bodega sa cabana
jardi lavica

The youngest of the lineup, Jardí Lavica is a passionate winery that stems from German entrepreneur Victoria Garten. A lifelong dream is now a reality for Victoria, and her high-quality wines are a true testament to her passion and the endless winemaking potential of Binissalem and Mallorca in general.

Established in 1968, this relatively young family winery is purposeful about its wine tourism. They have multiple tastings and tours to choose from, including a special sunset tasting. Antonio Nadal Ros is a fun and amicable place to try some of Mallorca’s finest wines.

antonio nadal
Finca Biniagual

While the Biniagual winery is located within its own village of the same name, I add it to the list as it belongs to the DO Binissalem and is just down the road from the town of Binissalem. Also, visiting their grounds – a repurposed 13th-century hamlet – is an experience well worth adding to your Binissalem itinerary.

  • José L. Ferrer
  • Vins Nadal
  • Bodegues Oliver
  • Can Novell
  • Ca’n Verdura
  • Vins Ripoll
  • Tianna Negre
  • Sa Cabana
  • Jardí Lavica
  • Antonio Nadal
  • Biniagual
jose l ferrer

Starting in 1931, José L. Ferrer is now one of the island’s largest producers, producing close to 1 million bottles annually. They have a large tasting room, outdoor patio, and a room of historical artifacts to peruse. The tasting room is set up similarly to a bar and accepts walk-up wine tastings.

Vins Nadal is one of my favorite wineries to visit. The grapes are fermented in a beautiful, old stone bodega in the middle of town. They have a lovely courtyard on which to taste their delicious wine while snacking on tasty tapas. Another winery that accepts walk-ups and has a tasting menu, though call ahead to ensure there is space.

vins nadal
bodegues oliver

Bodegues Oliver has been evolving over three generations. In the past, they produced bulk wine for the neighbors. Now, they bottle an extensive wine lineup for shipping around the island. Enjoy a tasting in their 18th-century cellar, conveniently located in town.

For over 100 years, Can Novell has produced wine for Binissalem and beyond. Much of their wine is sold in bulk out of large wooden casks from which you can fill bottles a liter or two at a time. Can Novell is synonymous with good, authentic, affordable wine.

can novell
ca'n verdura

Ca’n Verdura’s cellar is found within the narrow streets of Binissalem, but their wine is easily purchased across the island. The Ca’n Verdura family has been producing wine for six generations with a firm nod toward and humble appreciation of the local Montenegro grape.

Vins Ripoll is in their third generation of winemaking, which began in 1925. They stay true to Mallorca’s agricultural heritage by being a part of the protected geographical indication of Vi de la Terra Mallorca and by focusing much of their production on native grapes.

vins ripoll
tianna negre

Tianna Negre is a 100% organic wine producer with over 55 hectares of sustainable vine growth. Their winery is full of inspiration. They warmly welcome visitors for tastings and tours and put on musical events and even yoga classes.

Bodega Sa Cabana is located on ancient agricultural land just off the Ma-13 between Binissalem and Inca. The bodega invites you to visit their winery and sample one or all the four delectable wines they produce.

bodega sa cabana
jardi lavica

The youngest of the lineup, Jardí Lavica is a passionate winery that stems from German entrepreneur Victoria Garten. A lifelong dream is now a reality for Victoria, and her high-quality wines are a true testament to her passion and the endless winemaking potential of Binissalem and Mallorca in general.

Established in 1968, this relatively young family winery is purposeful about its wine tourism. They have multiple tastings and tours to choose from, including a special sunset tasting. Antonio Nadal Ros is a fun and amicable place to try some of Mallorca’s finest wines.

antonio nadal
Finca Biniagual

While the Biniagual winery is located within its own village of the same name, I add it to the list as it belongs to the DO Binissalem and is just down the road from the town of Binissalem. Also, visiting their grounds – a repurposed 13th-century hamlet – is an experience well worth adding to your Binissalem itinerary.

Cycling

Mallorca is a paradise many times over – for wine enthusiasts, foodies, beach bums, rock climbers, bird watchers, hikers, historians, and cyclists. Crisscrossing the historical towns of the Raiguer on a speedy road bike is an exceptional way to enhance your time on the island.

Check out Kamoot.com for an informative list of cycling routes around Binissalem, and head to Ciclos Gomila’s to get equipped.

Visit the Weekly Market

Every Friday from 9 am to 1 pm, Binissalem has its weekly market. Binissalem’s market is an insight into Mallorcan life beyond tourism. It is a great place to find local produce and handmade crafts.

Explore the Town

As a typical Mallorcan town, Binissalem is a great way to get a feel for Mallorcan life. There are several sites where you can appreciate the island’s architecture and culture.

Plaça de l’Església (the church square)

Spain wouldn’t be Spain without its endless, vibrant plazas. Binissalem’s is situated outside its large stone church and is always bustling. Grab a cortado or a beer and enjoy the sounds of the local Mallorquin dialect.

The Church of Santa María Robines

Having finished your beverage in the square, take a look inside their spectacular 18th-century baroque catholic church. You’ll notice, too, that two large marble statues of winemakers stand prominently in the square just outside the church.

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The Literary Museum

One of three literary museums in Mallorca, Binissalem’s museum celebrates the life and work of Llorenç Villalonga. The museum is in the 17th-century manor home in which he lived. Villalonga is renowned as one of the best Catalan narrators of the 20th century.

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See a Show at Attic Club

Attic Club is the venue within the restaurant of Bar s’Hotel. They have live shows every Thursday and Sunday. It’s a great place to grab a beer, a bite to eat, and join the town for some local live music.

Fires i Festes

Binissalem captures the spirit of Mallorca and Spain in general. It is no stranger to all-night fiestas. In fact, step into any restaurant around lunchtime (2 pm) on any given weekday, and you will think you have arrived in Binissalem on a holiday. It is a community that likes to gather, and when they gather, they become a cacophony of joyous conversation over clinking glasses and full plates. They also have some of the most renowned festivals on the island.

Els Reis d’Orient – January 5th

As big of an event as Christmas, if not more significant, is when The Three Kings come to town. The Three Kings parade through Binissalem, promising gifts and candy to the eager children.

Sant Antoni – January 17th

Binissalem is a great place to celebrate the fiery extravaganza that is Sant Antoni. All over the island, towns let loose with fires, parades, and BBQs. Binissalem lights several fires around town, the largest in Plaça de la Vila. Demons dance around the blaze while xeremiers (Mallorcan bagpipes) play. The following day, animal-drawn carriages parade through town.

Binissalem Wine Days – Mid May

This is a ten-day celebration of the DO Binissalem wine culture. Events occur from morning to night, with all DO Binissalem wineries participating. Enjoy electric bike wine tours, yoga class wine tastings, painting classes, and outdoor concerts amongst the vines. It’s a creative and active way to participate in the millennia-old culture of Binissalem wine.

Fira de la Pedra i l’Artesania – End of May

A coveted fair celebrating food and stonemasonry. Over 100 artists participate, displaying and performing their art. You can see stonework in the architecture all over the island; here in Binissalem, learn about the traditions and see them in practice at a fair that the whole island pays attention to.

Festa de Sant Jaume – July 25th

Saint James is Binissalem’s patron saint celebration. Loads of entertainment is planned for the children, as well as dances, devil parades, and music that lasts through the night.

Festa des Vermar – End of September

This is one of the main events on the island – two weeks of celebrating Binissalem. And if you are celebrating Binissalem, then you are celebrating wine. The celebration begins at the end of the grape harvesting season and includes the infamous grape-throwing battle. Amongst numerous other activities, the wine fair on the last Saturday in September is not to be missed.

Nadal – December

Being a local town full of family homes, Christmas is well received in Binissalem. The town is strung with lights and decorations that fill Plaça de la Vila.

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